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Pet
Care:
Under the new Animal Welfare Act, which
came into force at the end of March 2007, anyone who is responsible for a pet
has a legal responsibility to meet the five basic welfare needs of pets.
These are:
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a proper diet, including
fresh water
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somewhere suitable to live
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any need to be housed with
or apart from, other animals
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allowing animals to
express normal behaviour
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protect from and treatment
of, illness and injury
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Remember -
a pet needs your time and interest for the rest of its life.
All
photos © RSPCA
DOGS:
The right pet for you?
Dogs make very good friends, are
intelligent, faithful and fun. But they take up a lot of time and energy, are
quite expensive to look after and need plenty of space. A dog is not a good
choice for people who are out all day.
What do dogs need?
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Companionship - to be with
other dogs or people and not to be left alone for too long.
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A balanced diet.
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A constant supply of fresh,
clean water.
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A bed and blanket.
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A well-fenced garden to play
and exercise in.
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To be brushed every day,
especially if they have long hair.
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Help to clean their teeth.
They also need to have their teeth checked regularly by the vet.
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Regular walks and a lead for
walking near traffic or farm animals.
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Someone to clean up after
them with a pooper-scooper.
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Never to be left in a car in
warm weather, even with the window open.
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A collar and identity tag.
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To be properly trained.
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To be microchipped.
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To be neutered.
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To be taken to a vet if they
are ill.
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Injections to prevent
serious diseases.
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Worming and regular flea
treatments.
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To be looked after when you
are on holiday.
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PUPPY:
Thinking of getting a puppy? Make sure you know where
it comes from.
Deciding to buy a puppy should be a
careful, well-thought out decision. Make sure you don't unwittingly support the
cruel practice of puppy farming - the mass breeding of puppies for profit, often
with little regard for animal welfare.
The Breeding and Sale of Dogs (Welfare)
Act 1999 was introduced to give local authorities more powers to license dog
breeders and help stamp out puppy farming.
All new licensed breeders have to be
inspected by a vet and a local authority officer. There are strict penalties for
cruel breeders who break the law.
Help stamp out the cruel practice
of puppy farming by buying your puppy only from a licensed breeder or a
small-scale, local breeder. Or why not give a home to a puppy from the South
Bucks RSPCA.
Puppy search
Make sure you see a puppy with its
mother when you buy from a breeder or commercial premises - this will give you a
good idea of background, health, eventual size and temperament. It should stay
with its mother for at least eight weeks.
Contact the RSPCA or the local council
environmental health department if you are concerned about conditions at
premises where puppies are sold.
Try a local small breeder who could
have healthy puppies bred in a home environment - your local council dog warden,
vet or animal welfare officer may be able to help.
Don't buy from a large, unlicensed
breeding establishment - ask to see a copy of the breeder's licence.
Don't be tempted by advertisements
offering lots of different breeds for sale - this is a tactic sometimes used by
dealers selling puppies bought from unlicensed puppy farms.
Never buy a puppy from someone at a car
boot sale, tabletop sale or in a car park, and avoid buying puppies from pet
shops - you may be supporting the illegal and cruel practice of puppy farming.
Choosing a puppy
Puppies must be at least eight weeks
old before they leave their mother.
Purchase should be after, or
conditional on, a satisfactory veterinary examination.
Avoid skinny dogs or puppies. Also
avoid puppies with potbellies, as they are quite likely to have intestinal
worms.
Never be tempted to take a puppy with
runny eyes, a runny nose or a cough. Teeth should be clean and white. Gums
should be pink and not smelly.
Make sure the puppy's bottom is clean
without any signs of diarrhoea or soreness.
Do a quick check for fleas and other
parasites - many puppies have them but they can be treated. Brown or yellow
deposits in the ears are one sign of ear mites.
Puppies should have received the first
vaccinations in their immunisation programme before they leave their mother and
the vendor should supply an interim certificate.
Always make sure the breeder gives you
a diet sheet showing how the puppy has been fed so far - moving home is enough
of an upset for a young puppy without adding to it by the stress of feeding
unfamiliar food.
If you are concerned about the welfare
of a puppy contact the RSPCA cruelty and advice line on 0300 1234 999. Calls are
treated in strictest confidence. If you are concerned about a pet shop or
breeding establishment contact your local authority.
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CAT:
The right pet for you?
Cats are very clean and make good companions for many
people. But they can damage carpets and furniture with their claws and may not
always want to be stroked and handled.
What do cats need?
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Companionship - to be with
other cats or people for at least part of the day.
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A balanced diet - make sure
there are no bones in your cat's food.
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A constant supply of fresh,
clean water.
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A garden or safe place to
play and exercise every day, away from busy roads.
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Somewhere warm and cosy to
sleep.
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To be brushed regularly,
particularly when shedding their coats. Long-haired cats need to be brushed
every day.
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A scratching post.
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Help to clean their teeth.
You can brush or rub their teeth with special toothpaste. They also need to
have their teeth checked regularly by the vet.
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To come and go as they
please - a cat flap is ideal.
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To be trained to use a
litter tray.
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To be microchipped in case
they get lost.
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Cat neutering should be
carried out as early as possible in order to avoid unwanted litters. Most cats
are sexually mature at six months, but some cats can become pregnant as early
as five months. Therefore, the ideal age to neuter your cat is between four
and five months.
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To be taken to a vet if they
are ill or injured.
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Injections to prevent
certain serious diseases.
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Worming and regular flea
treatments.
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To be looked after when you
are away on holiday.
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RABBITS:
The right pet for you?
Rabbits are difficult to look after. They need lots of
space, and large homes that can be expensive to create. Before getting any pet,
think very hard about whether you can provide everything it needs.
What do rabbits need?
- Companionship - to be with other
rabbits or humans. The widespread practice of keeping rabbits and guinea pigs
together is not recommended.
- A mixed diet of grass, rabbit
pellets, apples, carrots, dandelions and a good quantity of hay.
- A constant supply of fresh, clean
drinking water in a drip feed bottle with metal spout.
- A large weatherproof home off the
ground, out of direct sunlight and strong winds. Move to an indoor area or
porch in cold weather. Many homes sold in pet shops are too small.
- A separate covered sleeping area for
each animal.
- A clean layer of wood shavings and
plenty of hay or shredded paper for bedding.
- Daily exercise in a large, safe
grassy area.
- Rabbits burrow, so ensure the
enclosure is sunk into the ground, escape-proof and safe from predators.
- Their home to be cleaned every day
and bedding changed weekly.
- A gnawing block to wear down long
teeth.
- To be brushed every day if they have
a long coat.
- To be neutered at an early age. Ask
your vet.
- Injections to prevent serious
diseases.
- To be taken to a vet if they are ill
or injured.
- To be looked after when you are on
holiday.
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GUINEA
PIGS:
The right pet for you?
Guinea pigs are friendly and easily
tamed, but they need commitment and regular attention. Long-haired guinea pigs
can be especially difficult to look after.
What do guinea pigs need?
- Companionship - to be with other
guinea pigs. The widespread practice of keeping guinea pigs and rabbits
together is not recommended.
- Feeding twice a day, with a mixture
of meadow hay, green stuff, pellets, washed fruit and vegetables.
- A constant supply of fresh, clean
drinking water in a drip feed bottle with a metal spout.
- A large weatherproof home kept off
the ground, out of direct sunlight and strong winds. It should be moved to an
indoor area or porch in cold weather.
- A separate sleeping area for each
animal inside the home.
- A clean layer of wood chippings on
the floor of their home and plenty of soft hay for bedding and burrowing.
- Daily exercise in a grassy area safe
from predators and an indoor run in cold weather.
- Their home to be cleaned every day
and bedding changed weekly.
- A gnawing block to wear down long
teeth.
- To be brushed every day if they have
a long or rough-haired coat.
- Some quiet time alone or with other
guinea pigs every day.
- To be taken to a vet if they are ill
or injured.
- To be looked after when you are on
holiday.
Life span
Guinea pigs live for up to seven
years.
Behaviour
In the wild, guinea pigs live in
close family groups, and it is unkind to keep one guinea pig. Companionship is
essential, but two adult guinea pigs that don't know each other may fight, so
choose two young littermates of the same sex, a father and son, or mother and
daughter. Guinea pigs have a basic need to graze and should have regular access
to a grassy area. Guinea pigs also need to have their own sleeping area.
Handling
Approach the guinea pig from the
front and on its level. Pick it up using both hands, one around the
hindquarters, the other around its shoulders (for a young guinea pig) or around
its chest (for an adult). Guinea pigs may become upset by too much handling.
Breeding
The RSPCA strongly advises that you
do not breed from your guinea pigs as it is very difficult to find good homes
for the young. The best way to ensure that guinea pigs do not breed is to keep
males and females apart.
A female guinea pig can produce up to five litters a year from a very young age.
Health
Guinea pigs should be checked
regularly for overgrown claws and teeth. Both can be trimmed by a vet.
Too much scratching results from skin problems and is often caused by mites or
lice. Your vet can provide suitable treatment for these.
Long-haired guinea pigs in particular may suffer from the potentially fatal
disease flystrike, caused by flies laying eggs in soiled fur. Make sure the
guinea pigs' home is cleaned every day and bedding changed regularly. Groom
guinea pigs every day, checking their fur all over for any dirt, especially
under the tail.
If a guinea pig develops bald patches on its face, this could indicate the
fungal disease ringworm. Seek veterinary advice straight away.
Guinea pigs can suffer from vitamin C deficiency, which causes weight loss,
general weakness and swollen joints. Ask your vet for advice on how to provide
your guinea pigs with an adequate supply of this vitamin.
If you have any concerns about your guinea pigs' health, ask your vet for
advice.
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HAMSTERS:
The right pet for you?
Hamsters are lively and clean and
most are happy to live alone, although some species will live as pairs. They can
take time to become tame and need to have peace and quiet during the day because
they are nocturnal.
What do hamsters need?
- To live alone (some dwarf species
will live as pairs).
- Daily feeding on a mixed diet of
seeds, grains, nuts and washed fruit and vegetables.
- A constant supply of fresh, clean
drinking water in a drip-feed bottle with a metal spout.
- A large home that is kept in a warm
place indoors, out of direct sunlight.
- A nest box inside their home. The
hamster needs somewhere it can burrow out of sight to sleep and hoard food.
- A clean layer of sawdust on the floor
of their home with soft hay and clean white kitchen paper for bedding. Do not
use newspaper or cotton wool.
- Plenty of exercise. A solid exercise
wheel (no open rungs) should be fixed to the wall of the hamster's home.
- Toys, like cardboard tubes and wooden
cotton reels.
- Their home to be tidied every day and
thoroughly cleaned every week.
- A hardwood gnawing block to wear down
long teeth.
- To be brushed every day, especially
if they have long hair.
- Quiet during the day.
- To be taken to a vet if they are ill
or injured.
- To be looked after when you are away
on holiday.
Life span
Hamsters live for up to two years.
Behaviour
In the wild, hamsters make
underground homes and have strong nest building instincts. They are nocturnal
and should be left alone and quiet during the day. If the temperature becomes
too cold, they may go into a deep sleep called hibernation. When two or more
hamsters are put together they usually fight, so it is best to keep just one
hamster. However, some dwarf species will live happily as a pair - so ask about
the particular hamster you are buying.
Handling
Pick up a hamster very gently using
both hands as a scoop and stay close over a flat surface. Hamsters move very
quickly and are likely to jump if they are frightened.
Breeding
The RSPCA strongly advises that you
do not breed from your hamster as it is very difficult to find good homes for
the young. The best way to ensure that hamsters do not breed is simply to keep
the sexes apart.
Health
If your hamster develops skin sores,
bathe them with warm water containing a mild antiseptic. If they persist, seek
veterinary advice. Loss of fur and sore skin could also indicate parasites or
the fungal disease ringworm.
Sore eyes can be caused by dusty bedding, old age or breathing problems. Ask
your vet for advice.
Hamsters may suffer from overgrown teeth and claws. Both can be trimmed by a
vet.
The lining of a hamster's cheek pouches is very delicate and can be damaged by
wood splinters or sharp food. If any material becomes lodged in the pouches,
seek veterinary advice straight away.
If a hamster is sneezing, breathing slowly and has a sore nose, it may have an
infection that could develop into pneumonia. Keep the hamster warm and improve
its diet, but seek veterinary advice if symptoms continue.
Wet tail is a potentially fatal disease that is highly infectious. If a hamster
is tired, loses its appetite and has watery diarrhoea, seek veterinary advice
straight away.
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GERBILS:
The right pet for you?
Gerbils are bright and inquisitive,
and fun to observe, but they need your commitment and regular attention. Before
getting any pet, you should think very hard about whether you can provide
everything it needs, including love.
What do gerbils need?
- Companionship - to be with other
gerbils.
- Daily feeding on a diet of mixed
grain and washed fruit and vegetables, with occasional sunflower seeds and
peanuts.
- A constant supply of fresh, clean
drinking water in a drip feed bottle with a metal spout.
- A large home called a gerbilarium
(like a big aquarium tank with a wire mesh cover) that is kept indoors in a
warm place, out of direct sunlight.
- Plenty of burrowing material (potting
compost and chopped straw or hay) and clean white kitchen paper or soft hay
for bedding.
- Toys to play with, like cardboard
tubes and wooden cotton reels.
- The gerbilarium to be tidied every
day and thoroughly cleaned out every two to three weeks.
- A softwood gnawing block to wear down
long teeth.
- Some quiet time every day to allow
them to rest.
- To be taken to a veterinary surgeon
if they are ill or injured.
- To be looked after when you are away
on holiday.
Life span
Gerbils live for three years.
Behaviour
In the wild, gerbils live in groups
called colonies, and it is unkind to keep one gerbil on its own. Either male or
female gerbils from the same litter can live happily together, but adult gerbils
that don't know each other are likely to fight. Gerbils are very active and have
a strong need to burrow, scratch and dig, so their housing needs to cater for
this. They are active by day and night, with about a three-hour cycle of
activity and rest.
Handling
Encourage the gerbil to walk on to
your outstretched hand, limiting its movement with your other hand over its
back. Gerbils are very lively and are inclined to jump, so great care and
caution is needed. They may become upset by too much handling. Never pick up a
gerbil by its tail.
Breeding
The RSPCA strongly advises that you
do not breed from your gerbils as it is very difficult to find good homes for
the young. The best way to ensure that gerbils do not breed is simply to keep
males and females apart.
A female gerbil has an average of five to seven litters during her life, with up
to eight young in each litter.
Health
If the gerbilarium is left in direct
sunlight, gerbils can suffer heat exhaustion. They should recover if moved to a
cool dark room and left alone, but the situation is easily avoided.
A sore nose and eyes can be caused by gnawing wire or burrowing in dusty
conditions. Make sure gerbils' accommodation is clean and suitable for their
needs.
Gerbils may suffer from overgrown teeth if there is a lack of material to chew
on. Your veterinary surgeon may have to cut them back.
Poor handling or a minor accident can cause a tail injury. The thinner part of
the gerbil's long tail is easily injured and great care should be taken when
handling and when choosing toys for the gerbilarium.
The most serious disease to affect gerbils is called Tyzzer's Disease. Symptoms
include tiredness, lack of appetite and diarrhoea. This disease can be fatal, so
you should seek veterinary advice straight away.
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FERRETS:
The right pet for you?
Ferrets are lively, playful and
easily tamed, but they need a lot of space. They can also inflict severe bites
and emit a strong musky smell. Before getting any pet, you should think very
hard about whether you can provide everything it needs.
What do ferrets need?
- Companionship - to be with other
ferrets and to have human company.
- A diet of complete dried food
supplemented with raw or cooked meat if desired. Meat should not be fed solely
as it does not contain all their nutritional requirements.
- A constant supply of fresh, clean
drinking water in a drip feed bottle with a metal spout.
- A large home that is kept up off the
ground, in an open shed or indoor area out of direct sunlight and strong
winds.
- Separate areas inside their home.
- A deep, clean layer of wood shavings
on the floor and plenty of fresh meadow hay or old clothing for bedding.
- Toys to play with, like cardboard
tubes and wooden cotton reels.
- Their home to be tidied every day and
thoroughly cleaned every week.
- A very large, secure area to play in.
- Injections to prevent certain serious
diseases.
- To be taken to a veterinary surgeon
if they are ill or injured.
- To be looked after when you are away
on holiday.
Life span
Ferrets live for about eight years.
Behaviour
Ferrets need to be with other
ferrets and it is unkind to keep one ferret on its own. Either male or female
ferrets from the same litter can live happily together. Although ferrets can
appear very tame, they are not easy to look after as they need a great deal of
space and may try to escape.
Handling
Pick up a ferret gently but firmly
using both hands, one around its hindquarters and the other around the
shoulders. Hold it close to your body. It is important to handle ferrets
regularly to keep them tame.
Breeding
The RSPCA strongly advises that you
do not breed from ferrets as it is very difficult to find good homes for the
young. The best way to ensure that ferrets do not breed is to have them
neutered. Male ferrets can be vasectomised. Female ferrets (jills) should be
neutered because they can get serious diseases.
Female ferrets come into season (a time when they can get pregnant) from early
spring until September. If you keep female ferrets, they will become sexually
mature at about eight months old, and you should seek expert advice on their
care before this stage.
Health
Ferrets must be vaccinated against
the potentially fatal disease canine distemper. Your veterinary surgeon will be
able to advise you on this.
If the ferrets' home is left in direct sunlight, ferrets can suffer from heat
exhaustion. They should recover if moved to a cool dark room and given plenty of
water, but the situation is easily avoided.
Ferrets can catch the influenza virus from humans, and you should keep away from
ferrets if you have flu. Keep an infected ferret away from the others and seek
veterinary advice straight away.
If a ferret is constantly scratching, producing bald patches in its fur and
broken patches in its skin, it may have mange. Seek veterinary advice straight
away.
Ferrets can suffer from parasites (tiny living things which live on other
creatures) if their bedding is not kept clean. Check ferrets' ears and coat
regularly and seek veterinary advice if there is any sign of mites.
If you have any concerns about the health of your ferrets, ask your veterinary
surgeon for advice.
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RATS
& MICE
The right pet for you?
Mice are lively and easily tamed,
but are active at night and may smell. Rats are intelligent and interesting to
look at, but need a lot of space and attention.
What do rats and mice need?
- Companionship - to be with other rats
or mice and to have human company.
- A balanced diet of mixed grains,
washed fruit and vegetables. Rats can also have seeds, nuts and small pieces
of cooked meat. Both should have a salt or mineral lick to keep them healthy.
- A constant supply of fresh, clean
drinking water in a drip feed bottle with a metal spout.
- A large home kept indoors in a warm
place, out of direct sunlight.
- Rats need a lot of floor space,
ideally on more than one level.
- Mice should have a solid exercise
wheel (with no open rungs) fixed to the wall of their home.
- A nest box inside their home and
plenty of hiding places.
- A clean layer of newspaper on the
floor of their home with soft hay and kitchen paper for bedding. Do not use
wood shavings or cotton wool.
- Toys to play with, like cardboard
tubes and ladders.
- Their home to be tidied every day and
thoroughly cleaned every week.
- A hardwood gnawing block to wear down
long teeth.
- To be taken to a vet if they are ill
or injured.
- To be looked after when you are on
holiday.
Life span
Rats and mice usually live for two
to three years.
Behaviour
Mice need to be with other mice and
rats with other rats. Male mice are likely to fight, unless they are
littermates, so it is better to keep female mice in groups. However, they can be
territorial, so introduce new mice into a neutral area first. Rats like the
company of humans, but are clever enough to escape if they have a chance.
Handling
To pick up a rat, place one hand
round its shoulders and support its hindquarters in your other hand. Handle rats
fairly regularly to keep them tame. To pick up a mouse, lift it up by the base
of the tail while supporting its body with your other hand. Hold it on your hand
and keep it close to the ground or over a flat surface. Rats and mice may bite
if frightened.
Breeding
The RSPCA strongly advises that you
do not breed from rats or mice. The best way to ensure that they do not breed is
to keep males and females apart.
A female rat could have a litter of up to 11 young every four to five weeks,
while a female mouse can have as many as 14 in a litter.
Health
If a mouse develops skin sores,
bathe them with a mild antiseptic. If they persist, seek veterinary advice. Loss
of fur and sore skin could also indicate parasites (tiny living things which
live on other creatures) or the fungal disease ringworm.
Symptoms of respiratory disease in both rats and mice include a loss of
appetite, a nasal discharge and uneven breathing. Keep the animal warm and seek
veterinary advice straight away.
Rats and mice can suffer from overgrown teeth if they do not have enough wood,
hard pellets or raw vegetables to gnaw on. Your vet may have to cut them back.
If a rat holds its head on one side and walks in circles, it may have middle ear
disease. Seek veterinary advice straight away.
Injury or a virus can cause paralysis in mice, and you should seek veterinary
advice straight away.
A rat that has a sore nose and is sneezing could be allergic to the materials in
its home. Use only good quality hay and wood shavings rather than sawdust.
Rats, especially older ones, often develop lumps and tumours. If you notice any
unusual growths, seek veterinary advice straight away.
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HORSES
& PONIES
The right pet for you?
Owning a horse or pony is rewarding,
but a huge responsibility and very hard work. You need a lot of land, time,
money and commitment.
What do horses and ponies need?
- Companionship - to be with other
horses, ponies, donkeys, goats or cattle and to have human company.
- Regular and frequent feeds of grass
and fresh hay, apples, carrots and corn feed.
- A constant supply of fresh, clean
water to drink.
- At least one hectare of pasture, with
strong and safe fencing. This must be well managed and ideally divided in two,
so that one area of grass can be rested while the other is used. Check for
poisonous plants.
- A shelter to protect them from cold,
windy or hot weather.
- Daily exercise or to be turned out in
a large area.
- To have stones and grit removed from
their hooves every day before and after exercise.
- If they are kept in a stable, they
must be groomed and mucked out every day.
- Visits from a farrier every four to
eight weeks.
- To be microchipped in case they are
lost or stolen.
- To be visited by a vet if they are
ill or injured.
- Regular injections to prevent certain
serious diseases.
- Worming every six to eight weeks.
- To be looked after when you are on
holiday.
Life span
Most horses and ponies live for over
20 years.
Behaviour
Horses and ponies are herd animals
and may get upset if kept alone. Human company is also important. It is better
for them to live outside than be permanently stabled, but they must have shelter
available. All horses and ponies need to be able to roam and graze in a field or
paddock.
Training and handling
Before taking on the responsibility
of a horse or pony, do make sure you have had adequate tuition in horse care.
Training may be available from a reputable riding school or equestrian centre.
Alternatively, contact the British Horse Society on 0870 12 02 244.
Horses and ponies are very sensitive animals and are easily frightened or upset.
Approach their heads slowly and speak as you do so. Sudden noises or unexpected
movements can cause alarm and make the animal difficult to handle.
Breeding
The RSPCA advises you do not breed
from your horse or pony unless you have the facilities and expertise to properly
care for a foal.
Females (mares) over three years old come into season every three weeks from
early spring to midsummer. Males (stallions) reach breeding age at two years. A
castrated male is called a gelding. Males should be castrated before they are
two years old.
Health
Horses and ponies should be
vaccinated against serious diseases, including equine flu and tetanus. Equine
flu is a very contagious virus - symptoms include fever, cough, runny eyes and
nose, depression and loss of appetite. Do not ride a horse or pony with a cough
except on veterinary advice.
If a horse or pony's breathing becomes louder and more noticeable at rest and
during light exercise, they may have broken wind, also known as Chronic
Obstructive Pulmonary Disease (COPD) and will need to see a vet.
A horse or pony may develop colic - pain in the stomach due to indigestion, gas,
or worms. Seek veterinary advice straight away. Horses should be routinely
treated for worms.
Laminitis is a very painful inflammation of the sensitive part inside the
hooves. It can cause lameness and deformity, so seek veterinary advice straight
away. Too much food and too little exercise cause it.
Horses and ponies may suffer from thrush, a foul smelling inflammation in the
foot. This is caused by dirty, wet bedding or poor farriery.
It is a good idea to take out insurance
to cover veterinary fees for your horse or pony.
Your horse deserves the best possible care so make
sure you are prepared to:
- visit your pet at least twice a day
to feed, exercise and remove dropping and wet bedding from the stable
- regularly groom your pet - checking
for lumps, bumps or bald patches - ask your vet for advice if you are
concerned
- have your pet injected against
infections diseases - ask your vet for advice
- make regular checks to ensure your
pet's field is free from poisonous plants such as ragwort, laburnum and yew.
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DONKEYS:
A donkey needs:
- Companionship with donkeys - to be
with other donkeys or ponies and people.
- A high fibre diet with the majority
of the diet being fed as good quality barley or oat straw with some hay in the
winter months, supplied in a net inside the shelter or stable.
- A salt/mineral lick.
- Some older or ill donkeys may require
supplementary feeding, products should be high in fibre and suitable for
laminitics e.g. high fibre nuts and laminitic safe chops.
- A constant supply of fresh clean
water.
- One acre of pasture per two donkeys,
preferably divided in two so that parts of the field can be used in rotation
(used alternately).
- Pasture that is well managed and kept
clear of poisonous plants (especially ragwort).
- Pasture that has good secure
boundaries.
- A draughtproof and waterproof shelter
or stable with straw for bedding.
- To be kept warm and dry in the winter
and away from flies and sun in the summer.
- Daily exercise.
- Gentle regular grooming, particularly
in spring.
- Its feet to be picked out every day
(removal of grit and stones).
- Visits from the farrier for hoof
trimming every six to ten weeks.
- Monitoring for parasite burdens in
conjunction with a vet and worming appropriately only when required.
- Routine vaccinations and dental
examination (especially for older donkeys).
- Careful and sensitive handling.
- To be under the care of a veterinary
surgeon.
- Your time and interest for the rest
of its life.
Additional information
Lifespan: Up to 30 years (but may
be longer).
Sexually mature: Jennies (female) 18 months;
Jacks (male) six to 12 months.
In season: Every three weeks for five to seven days.
Gestation: Ten to 14 months.
Number of offspring: One.
Handling: Donkeys need to be approached cautiously. Approach from the
head and speak as you do. Donkeys enjoy being groomed and gentle handling.
Sudden noises upset donkeys.
Companionship: Donkeys are friendly animals and will be unhappy - and may
start braying - if kept alone. They should always be kept with another equine -
horse, pony or donkey. They bond with other animals and bonded pairs should not
be separated. Human companionship is also needed.
Health problems
Lice: Infected donkeys will rub
themselves vigorously on gates and fence posts and may develop open sores. Seek
advice from your veterinary surgeon.
Mud fever: Caused by constant exposure to wet and muddy conditions.
Occurs on the lower forelegs and in severe cases the legs will swell and the
animal will become lame. Seek advice from a veterinary surgeon.
Sweet itch: A kind of eczema caused by allergy to midges. The symptoms
are a badly rubbed mane and tail. Seek veterinary advice.
Intestinal worms: All donkeys will pick up worms and need regular faecal
sampling to determine parasite burdens and worming only when necessary.
Gastro-intestinal problems: These are often not obvious, as the signs are
not as clear as in horses. Dullness, loss of appetite and behavioural changes
should be regarded with suspicion and veterinary advice sought. Hyperlipaema:
The most common killer disease of donkeys, associated with stress and obesity.
Consult your veterinary surgeon straightaway if the donkey is off its food,
uncomfortable and standing over a water trough but not drinking.
If you have any concerns about your
donkey's health, do ask your vet.
Your donkey deserves the best possible care so make
sure you are prepared to:
- visit your pet at least twice a day
to feed, exercise and remove dropping and wet bedding from the stable
- regularly groom your pet - checking
for lumps, bumps or bald patches - ask your vet for advice if you are
concerned
- have your pet injected against
infections diseases - ask your vet for advice
- make regular checks to ensure your
pet's field is free from poisonous plants such as ragwort, laburnum and yew.
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BUDGIES
& CANARIES:
The right pet for you?
Budgies and canaries are colourful
and friendly companions that need to live with other birds in a large aviary.
This can be expensive to build or buy and needs regular cleaning, for health
reasons.
What do budgies and canaries need?
- Companionship - to be with other
budgies or canaries and to have human company.
- A balanced diet of bird food, seed
shaken through a fine sieve to get rid of dust, and regular treats like fresh
washed lettuce, carrots and apple.
- A constant supply of fresh, clean
water.
- A large aviary, safe from predators
and with sleeping areas or nesting boxes to give protection from cold, wind
and direct sunlight.
- Daily exercise. There must be plenty
of space for flying in the aviary.
- Lots of wooden perches for sleeping
on. Budgies like to perch high up and all at the same level, while canaries
need bark-covered twigs to perch on.
- Branches, toys and vegetation in the
aviary to create an interesting environment.
- Clean water for bathing.
- Grit to help digestion.
- A cuttlefish bone to peck at.
- The aviary to be cleaned regularly.
- To be taken to a vet if they are ill
or injured.
- To be looked after when you are on
holiday.
Life span
Budgies can live for up to 10 years,
canaries for five to six years.
Behaviour
In the wild, budgies and canaries
live in large groups so it is unkind to have just one bird. Get a pair or a
group of male or female birds at the same time to avoid jealousy. Canaries and
budgies should not be kept in the same aviary as canaries are smaller and may be
bullied. All captive birds need a stimulating environment and space to fly
around.
Handling
Budgies can be trained to land on
your finger and can be handled quite frequently without stress. Canaries should
be handled as little as possible. To pick up a bird, place one hand over its
back. The tail should lie along the inside of your wrist and the head should
rest between the first and second fingers, while the thumb and other fingers
restrain the wings. Relax your fingers to make your grip as gentle as possible -
never squeeze the bird.
Breeding
The RSPCA advises that you do not
breed from budgies or canaries as it is very difficult to find good homes for
the young. The best way is to keep males and females apart. Female budgies come
into season from early spring until autumn, and will lay up to six eggs in one
clutch. Only breed if you are able to provide or find good homes for any
offspring.
Health
If your budgie or canary is huddled
on its perch, wheezing and gasping for breath, it may have an infection that
could lead to bronchitis or pneumonia. Keep the bird warm and seek veterinary
advice straight away.
Budgies may suffer from an overgrown beak or claws. The beak can usually be kept
in trim by pecking at a cuttlefish bone, but it may need to be trimmed by a vet.
Claws can be kept short by providing perches with a rough or bark-covered
surface. If they need clipping, a vet should do this.
Budgies may develop a contagious condition called scaly face, a grey crust that
spreads around the beak and face. It is caused by a tiny parasite and can be
treated by your vet.
Canaries may suffer from digestive disorders, causing listlessness, sleepiness
and loss of appetite. If a canary has constipation, diarrhoea or blood in its
droppings, keep it away from the others, make sure it is warm and seek
veterinary advice straight away.
Feather plucking can be a sign of boredom or stress. Make sure your budgie or
canary has suitable companions, lots of room to fly and plenty of interesting
toys and perches.
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PARROTS:
Birds in the parrot family include small
lovebirds and parrots, which do not grow beyond 12 centimetres, right up to the
large macaws, which can grow to over 80 centimetres.
Your parrot deserves the best care possible so make sure you are prepared to:
find out how your parrot will change as
he/she matures, including changes in size and behaviour, so that you know how
best to interact with him/her and provide the right care, environment and
companionship
check that the person who looks after
your parrot when you go on holiday knows all about the care needed, including
the specialist feeding and how to minimise any disturbance
accept that some parrots can live for
more than 50 years.
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CHICKENS:
Wherever they are kept, all species of farm animals
have certain basic needs that must be adequately catered for if the animals are
to have an acceptable quality of life.
These include:
- continuous ready access to an
adequate supply of clean, fresh drinking water
- provision of feed of a type and form
appropriate to the age and species of animal, to maintain them in good health
and to satisfy their nutritional needs. Such foodstuffs should be properly
protected from rodents and other pests.
- continuous access to shelter, free
from sharp edges, protrusions etc. which could cause injury, and including a
clean, dry, well-bedded lying or roosting (for poultry) area large enough to
allow all animals using the shelter to lie down (or roost) together at the
same time.
- additional space and a suitable
environment for exercise, feeding, dunging and the expression of natural
behaviours.
- competent care and management from
those with the knowledge and skill to ensure the animals' wellbeing.
- regular, frequent inspection (at
least daily, and more frequently for vulnerable animals such as those that are
ill, or very young) of each animal.
- appropriate preventative and/or
curative veterinary treatment available at all times. Vaccinations, should be
carried out by a veterinary surgeon, who should also advise on worming. Foot
trimming of goats should be carried out either by the vet, or some other
competent person.
- company of their own kind - animals
should not be kept isolated from others.
Water
There must be a clean source of
water available at all times. When new chickens are introduced, they must be
provided with facilities to which they are already accustomed, as chickens do
not like to drink from unfamiliar drinkers. Suitable drinkers should be used
for young chicks to prevent them climbing in and drowning. As the birds become
bigger and require more water, alternative drinkers should be introduced and
the old drinkers should be removed gradually over a number of days.
Food
Day-old chicks will peck at small
pellet-shaped objects, and within a few days they will learn to recognise food
particles. Chickens will spend much of their day scratching and foraging for
small seeds and roots in the ground. They will need additional food such as
grain to provide an adequate balance of protein, carbohydrates and minerals.
As the female birds mature they will begin to lay eggs and a calcium
supplement should be included in the diet. If they are kept on a grassed area,
the grass should not be allowed to become too long, as, if eaten, long strands
can become impacted in the crop, making it difficult for the birds to digest
food. Chickens must always have access to insoluble grit to aid digestion.
Nest boxes
Laying chickens should be
encouraged to lay their eggs in a designated nest box area, especially if the
eggs are intended for human consumption. The boxes should be draught-free and
lined with clean, dry and comfortable material such as straw or wood shavings.
Many chickens prefer to find a quiet, isolated place to lay their eggs away
from their pen mates.
Shelter
Chickens will naturally seek a
raised position to roost at dusk, as a means of protection against predators.
They should be given a warm, dry shelter with raised perches that are
approximately 3-5cm in width with rounded edges, to enable the birds to grip.
Enough perching space should be provided so as to allow all the chickens to
roost at the same time, with at least one square meter of floor space for nine
birds. To help maintain good feather condition, there should always be a dry
place where the chickens can dust bathe and preen their feathers.
Where chickens are given access to a shed, the entrance to this should be wide
enough to allow the hens to pass through without difficulty. The shed should
be bedded with clean straw, cleaned out frequently, and checked to ensure that
there are no harmful parasites which could compromise the birds' health.
Adequate ventilation is very important and, while it is important to keep the
birds warm, there must also be good air circulation inside the shed.
In smaller houses, a greater proportion of birds tend to go out onto the range
area during the day, and only use the shed at night. When they roost, hens
like to be near each other as this gives them a greater sense of safety.
However, there must be enough space either side of the perch for hens get up
and down from these without injuring themselves. It also helps to maintain a
comfortable temperature within the shed - particularly during the colder
months.
Pasture
The outdoor area will require
careful management and should be given periods of rest, to allow the ground
and grass to recover. It is important that the area is sufficiently large
enough to be divided - unless there are alternative grass areas nearby to use
- in order to allow the chickens to roam on good pasture every day. On the
range area, there should be additional means of overhead shelter, to protect
them against direct sunlight, strong wind and driving rain.
Fencing
Fences should be well maintained
and provide appropriate protection against predators. The design should ensure
that the birds cannot escape or become trapped.
Worming
Poultry kept on the same ground
for a prolonged period will need regular worming.
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REPTILES:
The right pet for you?
Reptiles like snakes and lizards may
be interesting and unusual, but they need specialist care and some can be a
challenge to keep well. They are also expensive to look after correctly. Before
getting any pet, you should think very hard about whether you can provide
everything it needs.
What do reptiles need?
- A great deal of space. A baby iguana,
for example, may initially look small, but can grow to nearly one and a half
metres long. A Burmese python can reach over five metres. As reptiles grow,
they need more and more space.
- To be fed with the right kind of
food. You may have to obtain this from a specialist, and the reptile's diet
could include insects or rodents.
- A specially built home that recreates
the reptile's natural environment as closely as possible. This includes
controlling the levels and quality of light, with a range of temperatures and
humidity in accordance with the animal's needs. Some reptiles need to spend
time in water to bathe or swim, branches for climbing and many require
ultra-violet light, which can all be very expensive to provide.
- A secure enclosure is also important.
A reptile that escapes from its warm environment into the wild can suffer and
die. Some reptiles are dangerous, such as venomous snakes and caiman
alligators.
- Anyone deciding to keep a reptile
needs to find out about the specialist care it needs in captivity and be
prepared to take on the commitment of time and money throughout its long life.
- To have help from an experienced
keeper on keeping and a veterinary surgeon if they are ill or injured. You may
have to travel some distance to find a specialist vet.
- To be looked after when you are away
on holiday.
Life span
Iguanas can live for 20 years and
some snakes for 50 years.
Behaviour
Most reptiles kept as pets
originally come from tropical or sub-tropical climates. They are entirely
dependent upon their owners to provide suitable conditions for them and will
suffer a great deal if their complex needs are not met.
Handling
All reptiles need careful and expert
handling. It is important to learn the correct way to pick up a snake or lizard,
to avoid injuring the animal or putting yourself at risk. Large reptiles should
not be handled by young children and large snakes may need more than one person
to handle.
Breeding
The RSPCA strongly advises that you
do not breed from reptiles, unless you are prepared to take on the long-term
commitment to provide the specialist care for any offspring, or you can already
rehome to someone with the required knowledge and facilities.
Health
Many reptiles need ultra-violet
light from the sun to help make vitamin D and absorb calcium. In captivity this
needs to be provided artificially, otherwise they will start to absorb calcium
from their own bones, leaving them too weak to move.
Some snakes, like the Californian kingsnake or the garter snake, need artificial
heat. However, they can be seriously burned if this is not provided correctly.
If a Burmese python does not have access to water for bathing, it may have
difficulty shedding its skin. Some snakes, such as many pythons and the
anaconda, need to spend time in water to stay healthy.
Despite many reptiles now being bred in captivity, every year, millions of
animals, including reptiles, are trapped from the wild and sold into the
international pet trade. Many die during capture or transport, and those that
reach pet shops may be sick or weak from their ordeal.
A variety of illnesses, injuries and infections can be caused by keeping
reptiles in unsuitable conditions. It is vital to find out as much as possible
about a reptile's natural environment and its diet in order to prevent
suffering.
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SNAKES:
Your snake deserves the best care
possible so make sure you are also prepared to:
- learn more about what you're taking
on - snakes can vary greatly in size, from less than one metre for some king
snakes, to up to 10 metres for a reticulated python
- take care choosing a floor covering
that allows natural behaviour, like burrowing - so, if your snake eats it, no
harm is caused
- only keep venomous snakes if you have
a secure enclosure, experience and a Dangerous Wild Animals Act licence from
your local authority.
Note:
Most snakes are only active at night or during low light levels, so make sure
the location of your snake's home, the types of lamps and the time of day he/she
is handled does not cause disturbance or harm.
Points to consider before you choose your pet:
research the species of animal you plan
to keep.
each species will have special needs
take care to avoid acquiring a
wild-caught animal
prepare a stable home
find out about the humidity,
temperature and light levels needed for the reptile being kept and, therefore,
the most suitable type of equipment
make sure you have the appropriate food
and know where to obtain further supplies
find a vet with experience of treating
the species of animal you plan to keep.
Points to consider after you acquire your pet:
maintain a stable home for your pet
use thermometers and thermostats to
monitor and maintain a stable temperature range
hydrometers can also be used to monitor
and maintain stable humidity levels
maintain good hygiene using appropriate
products and ventilation, whilst minimising the disturbance of the animal
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LIZARDS:
Your lizard deserves the best care
possible so make sure you are also prepared to:
- find out when your lizard is
naturally active - some prefer to be active at night, others during the day -
and make sure the location of your lizard's home, the lighting levels and the
time of day he/she is handled does not cause disturbance or harm
- check that the person who looks after
your lizard when you go on holiday knows all about the care needed, including
maintaining suitable lighting and heating
- take care choosing a floor covering
that allows natural behaviour, like burrowing - so, if your lizard eats it, no
harm is caused.
Note:
Watch out for bone deformities that
can be caused by an unbalanced diet or insufficient UV lighting.
Points to consider before you choose your pet:
research the species of animal you plan
to keep.
each species will have special needs
take care to avoid acquiring a
wild-caught animal
prepare a stable home
find out about the humidity,
temperature and light levels needed for the reptile being kept and, therefore,
the most suitable type of equipment
make sure you have the appropriate food
and know where to obtain further supplies
find a vet with experience of treating
the species of animal you plan to keep.
Points to consider after you acquire your pet:
maintain a stable home for your pet
use thermometers and thermostats to
monitor and maintain a stable temperature range
hydrometers can also be used to monitor
and maintain stable humidity levels
maintain good hygiene using appropriate
products and ventilation, whilst minimising the disturbance of the animal.
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TORTOISES
& TERRAPINS:
Your tortoise or terrapin deserves the
best care possible so make sure you are also prepared to:
- check that the person who looks after
your pet when you go on holiday knows all about the care needed, including
maintaining suitable lighting and heating
- accept that tortoises can live for
more than 50 years, and terrapins for 30 years
- find out what size your tortoise or
terrapin will grow to - for instance, the African spurred or sulcata tortoise
is a giant that can reach 80 centimetres!
Note:
Don't oil or scratch your tortoise's
shell as this can block the pores, attract dirt and increase the risk of
infection. Also, watch out for shell deformities and other health problems,
which can be caused by an unbalanced diet or insufficient UV lighting.
Points to consider before you choose your pet:
research the species of animal you plan
to keep.
each species will have special needs
take care to avoid acquiring a
wild-caught animal
prepare a stable home
find out about the humidity,
temperature and light levels needed for the reptile being kept and, therefore,
the most suitable type of equipment
make sure you have the appropriate food
and know where to obtain further supplies
find a vet with experience of treating
the species of animal you plan to keep.
Points to consider after you acquire your pet:
maintain a stable home for your pet
use thermometers and thermostats to
monitor and maintain a stable temperature range
a secure outside enclosure for the
summer months
maintain good hygiene using appropriate
products and ventilation, whilst minimising the disturbance of the animal.
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FISH:
The right pet for you?
Fish are colourful and fascinating
to watch. Setting up an aquarium or pond can be expensive and time-consuming,
but most fish are easy to look after.
What do fish need?
A stable home
Companionship - many fish live in
groups.
Most fish need specially prepared fish
food and some also eat live food like water fleas.
Indoor fish need a large aquarium with
a ventilated cover. It should be kept out of direct sunlight and away from
extremes of hot and cold. The bottom of the aquarium should be covered with
clean gravel.
The surface area of the water must be
sufficient for all the fish to breathe. An aquarium should have a filter to keep
the water clean and, when needed, an aeration pump to regulate the amount of
oxygen in the water and a heater and thermostat to regulate the temperature.
An aquarium needs to be cleaned
regularly and the water changed appropriately.
If fish are suitable to be kept
outdoors, they need a large pond with some overhanging plants or trees to
provide shade.
A pond needs to be cleaned out once a
year and the water changed. Fallen leaves must be cleared from the surface of
the water and plants thinned out. If the pond freezes, some of the ice should be
melted carefully to maintain a hole.
A variety of water plants in the pond
or aquarium to provide oxygen and cover. Smooth rocks and other objects also
provide hiding places.
Plenty of light to encourage water
plants to grow.
To have help from a vet if they are ill
or injured.
To be looked after when you are on
holiday.
Life span
Goldfish can live for up to 25
years.
Behaviour
Many fish live in groups called
shoals in the wild and they need the company of their own kind. When choosing
fish make sure they can live happily together and are healthy. It is best to
choose types that live at different depths in the water - surface, middle and
bottom levels - but don't put too many fish in together as this can cause
crowding resulting in competition for food, poor water quality and fish not
being able to breathe.
Handling
Fish are very delicate and
sensitive. They should not be caught and moved by hand as this is very
distressing for them and they are easily injured. Use a large smooth net to
gently lift one fish out of the water. Avoid any sudden changes in temperature
or light level.
Breeding
Make sure you have the space and
facilities to accommodate the young.
All fish develop from eggs and most lay eggs that are fertilised outside the
body. Some tropical fish give birth to young that are tiny versions of the
adult. Different fish need different conditions to breed.
Health
If fish are gulping at the surface
of the water, they could be suffering from oxygen starvation. Improve the oxygen
supply by regular water changes, cleaning out the aquarium or pond, using an air
pump and adding plants.
Sudden changes in water temperature can be very dangerous. When moving your fish
or changing the water, make sure the temperature is kept even. Always use an
additive to tap water to remove chlorine. Good fish stores will advise on the
ones to use in your area.
White strands or tufts like cotton wool on the body of a fish could indicate a
serious fungus disease. This can be treated by adding anti-fungus medication to
the water.
If a fish has a trailing brown thread from its body, it may have constipation. A
more varied diet is needed, including vegetable bits and some live food.
Fish may suffer from white spot disease, caused by a parasite. If there are
white spots on your fish, you can buy a cure from most pet shops. The whole
aquarium will need to be treated.
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GOLDFISH:
Your goldfish deserves the best care possible so make
sure you are prepared to:
check that the person who looks after
your fish when you go on holiday also knows how to monitor and maintain the
water quality and is aware of the need to avoid over-feeding
take action quickly if your fish are
gaping at the surface - this may indicate low oxygen and high carbon dioxide in
the water
if kept outside ensure that an outdoor
pond is deep enough for goldfish to survive any extreme changes in temperature
around their home - such as when the pond ices over.
Be prepared before you bring a new fish home. Find out about the range of water
temperatures your fish can live in - sudden changes in water temperature can be
fatal.
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STICK
INSECT:
The right pet for you?
Stick insects are relatively easy to
keep and can be interesting to look at. Before getting any pet, you should think
very hard about whether you can provide everything it needs.
What do stick insects need?
- Companionship - to be with other
stick insects (but kept apart from other insect types).
- A diet of fresh leaves. Most types of
stick insect will live on bramble, but the Indian stick insect also eats
privet, hawthorn and rose. These leaves should be kept on the twig and stood
in a pot of water, with a cover to prevent the insects drowning. Avoid any
leaves that may have been sprayed with pesticide. Spray the leaves with water
daily and change them once a week.
- The floor of their home to be lined
with paper, which should be changed once a week. Be careful to keep an eye on
the stick insects while cleaning out the home, so that they are not thrown out
with old plants.
- A large, well-ventilated home, that
is kept indoors in a warm place out of direct sunlight. They should have
plenty of room to climb out of their skins.
- To be allowed out to fly occasionally
if they have wings.
- To be left alone just before they
shed their skins and for a few days afterwards.
- To be looked after when you are away
on holiday.
Life span
Stick insects live for about 12
months.
Behaviour
Stick insects should be kept with
other stick insects but must not be overcrowded. They may fight and even eat
each other if they are not given enough water, are fed incorrectly or do not
have sufficient space.
Handling
Stick insects are very delicate and
should be handled with great care. It is best to pick them up with an artist's
paintbrush.
Breeding
The RSPCA strongly advises that you
do not breed from stick insects as it is very difficult to find good homes for
the young.
In some species of stick insect, females produce fertile eggs without mating.
This is known as parthenogenesis. Stick insects will lay between 100 and 700
eggs in a clutch, depending on the species. Eggs should be collected and
carefully destroyed.
Health
If a stick insect loses a leg, this
is not fatal as it will grow another one after its next skin change.
A stick insect that is twitching has probably eaten leaves that have been
treated with pesticide and it is likely to die.
If a stick insect has problems shedding its skin, you can help. When the stick
insect looks fat, gently moisten the old skin and carefully peel it away.
Stick insects may suffer from mites if their home is not kept clean and
well-ventilated.
If you have any concerns about the health of your stick insects, ask your
veterinary surgeon or an expert for advice.
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MONITORING
& HEALTH CHECKS:
The most important initial step in providing good
care for your pet is to get to know it well.
Read about how the animal would live
in the wild - and therefore the care needed in captivity - and contact other
experienced keepers and organisations to find out how to set up a stable
environment. Ensure you have all the equipment and access to the correct diet
before you take the animal home. Find a vet experienced in the treatment of the
species, so you know where you can take your pet if it becomes sick or injured.
Essential health precautions and checks for your
pet:
By maintaining an environment suitable for the species of animal, feeding the
required nutrient-balanced diet and routine monitoring; many health problems can
be prevented.
-
Quarantine any new arrival to make
sure it is healthy before keeping it close to any other animals.
-
Find out about any health problems
your species of animal is vulnerable to.
-
Keep a look out for any signs of
parasites.
-
Always wash your hands after handling
your pet and cleaning any equipment in its home to reduce the risk of passing
on any diseases to other animals or becoming sick after having contact with
any bacteria.
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COCOA
MULCH:
A
Warning Message from Ali Taylor, Head of Welfare, Battersea Dogs Home:
Yesterday one of our dog agility friends experienced a
tragedy and wanted me to pass a special message along to all dog lovers.
Over the weekend the doting owner of two young lab
mixes purchased Cocoa Mulch from Target to use in their garden. They loved
the way it smelled and it was advertised to keep cats away from their
garden.
Their dog Calypso decided that the mulch smelled good enough to eat and
devoured a large helping. She vomited a few times which was typical when she
eats something new but wasn't acting lethargic in any way. The next day, Mum
woke up and took Calypso out for her morning walk. Half way through the
walk, she had a seizure and died instantly.
Although the mulch had
NO warnings printed on the label, upon further
investigation on the company's website, this product is
HIGHLY toxic to dogs and cats.
Cocoa Mulch is manufactured by Hershey's, and they claim that "It is true
that studies have shown that 50% of the dogs that eat Cocoa Mulch can suffer
physical harm to a variety of degrees (depending on each individual dog).
However, 98% of all dogs won't eat it."
Also included was the following
information -
'Cocoa Mulch, which is sold by Home Depot,
Foreman's Garden Supply and other Garden supply stores, contains a lethal
ingredient called "Theobromine". It is lethal to dogs and cats. It smells
like chocolate and it really attracts dogs. They will ingest this stuff and
die.
Several deaths already occurred in the last 2-3 weeks. Just a word of
caution, check what you are using in your gardens and be aware of what your
gardeners are using in your gardens.
Cocoa bean shells contain potentially toxic quantities of theobromine, a
xanthine compound similar in effects to caffeine and theophylline. A dog
that ingested a lethal quantity of garden mulch made from cacao bean shells
developed severe convulsions and died 17 hours later. Analysis of the
stomach contents and the ingested cacao bean shells revealed the presence of
lethal amounts of theobromine.'
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DISCLAIMER:
This website contains
general advice on those animal-related matters which, in the RSPCA's experience,
affect animal lovers and pet owners most often. Unfortunately, it is not
possible in the context of the website to take into account individual
situations or consider unusual problems or circumstances.
You should seek further advice and assistance from your vet, the RSPCA or
other appropriate expert if you are concerned about the welfare of a particular
animal.
The RSPCA regrets that it cannot accept any responsibility for acts or omissions
based on the following advice which is intended as a general introduction to
animal-related problems only.
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